It's a Shore Thing
Taking a Bite out of Malaysia – Past, Present, Future

(C)2004 by Sandra Lee Larsen

Tourism isn't new to Malaysia.   It has been on the path of trade winds for centuries, ports for visitors and conquerors alike, forming a veritable melting pot of peoples and cultures. Malaysia's architecture and appetites have been influenced, adding spice – literally and figuratively – coloring traditions in a kaleidoscope display, blended to shape what we presently consider ?Malay.' And now, the secret is out for today's travelers!   Malaysia is the rising star of Southeast Asian tourism, a nation looking to the future while cherishing the ways of the past.

This diverse fantasyland is a tapestry of contrasts , woven together seamlessly in marriages of cultures reflecting centuries-old traditions through languages, beliefs, festivals and cuisine. Malaysian food, like the country and its people, is an intricate web of worldwide influences born of ancient times. To understand today's Malaysia, one must know its multi-hued history.

With jungle terrain on most of Malaysia's 99 islands, it's possible to vanish into seclusion at a moment's notice. Most visitors view Malaysia as a tropical paradise and choose to frolic on – or below – warm coral seas with outstanding dive sites and some of the world's most beautiful beaches, dusted with white (one with black) sand.   Others head for the highlands and soaring peaks to mountain or rock climb.   Malaysia is also a great place to get teed off on one of 200 professionally designed courses, and take in the remarkable national parks to explore unique flora and fauna. A growing number of hideaways present the ultimate opportunities to bask in serene and sumptuous pampering. Malaysia's broad spectrum of heady options is virtually unequaled.

 

Malaysia is one of the most pleasant, hassle-free countries to visit, positioned just north of the Equator between Thailand and Singapore, flanked by the Indian Ocean and the South China Sea. Since its independence in 1957, this ancient land is well positioned to reap the rewards.

It's no surprise that the country is teetering on the verge of being "discovered" international tourists and travelers seeking culture, cost-friendly vacations and emerging paradises to call their own. Several decades of sustained economic growth and political stability have made it one of the most buoyant and wealthy countries in the region.

Malaysia's government is optimistically pumping money into its service infrastructure and resorts, and has even declared certain regions "duty-free zones" with no labor problem, positive exports/imports, including its own Proton vehicle, and production of 600,000 barrels of petroleum daily, (the government subsidizes petrol prices) , Malaysia's moderate government makes it a safe, comfortable destination.   English is widely spoken.

Rubber and oil palm plantations surround its capital and showpiece, Kuala Lumpur, providing languorous softness to a modern bustling city of almost two million people. In its 130 years, the capital city has grown from a tin trade outpost to a center of commerce, politics, entertainment and international activities.   Its high-flying triumphs range from the world's tallest buildings to its cultural depths in the back lanes of Chinatown.

The five-star hotel, Equatorial Kuala Lumpur, http://www.equatorial.com/hotel/kl/, is most possibly the best place to experience Malaysia's broad cuisine palette.   Its seemingly endless evening banquette displays many of the country's traditional culinary styles that have been greatly influenced by the long-ago traders from neighboring countries $)A!* spicy, flavorful, and utilizing a melting pot of spices and herbs.

Not satisfied to rely on its natural beauty and diversity, Malaysia is endeavoring to create the world's best environment for harnessing the full potential of multimedia without any artificial limits.   Forty-five minutes from the capital, Putrajaya is a strategically placed center node of the Multimedia Supermedia Coridor (MSC).   It is a well-planned city built according to a series of comprehensive guidelines for land use, transportation system, utilities, infrastructure, housing, public amenities, information technology, parks and gardens http://www.putrajaya.net.my/

This remarkable, all encompassing municipality will eventually be part of a 9 x 30-mile stretch of high-tech companies that Malaysia envisions as Southeast Asia's version of California's Silicon Valley. Putrajaya is also a fast developing tourist destination in its own right.  

"The two-year-old town is drawing tourists, lured by its eco-tourism products, man-made lakes including the largest in the world, wetland and gardens," said Putrajaya Corporation president, Tan Sri Azizan Zainul Abidin. "Putrajaya is visited for its beauty, ambiance and architecture. Visitors are awed by its unique character, and how this amazing city has been created from an oil palm plantation."  It's easy to reflect Axizan's enthusiasm as he spreads his arms wide, explaining expansive ongoing plans, including 300 hotel rooms and a boutique hotel to be opened soon.

Balancing Malaysia's future projections is its historical cradle, Melaka.   It is believed that Parameswara, a Sumatran prince, founded the city in 1400.   People of many seafaring nations - Portuguese, Dutch, English, Arabs, Indians and Chinese have left their numerous indelible marks there - make it a feast for history buffs and antique lovers, who hunt in its myriad shops and bargain for treasures of the past. Sampling mouth-watering culinary mixes of nyonya and Portuguese dishes can be experienced at their best in Melaka.

Off of Malaysia's northwestern coast via Asia's third-longest bridge lies Penang, "Pearl of the Orient." This exotic island is one of palm-fringed beaches, rustic fishing villages, and charming colonial buildings, mysterious places of worship and pulsating street life.   Of significance to visitors are Penang's nature trails including the Fruit and Butterfly Farms and Tropical Spice Garden, with an opportunity to sample the highly acclaimed – and controversial, for its smell - durians, the king of fruits. .

Hawker' food, fruits, or drinks is sold from push-carts or mobile stalls.   They're a common sight around the country, especially on Penang Island. The food is normally freshly prepared and most hawkers in Penang and other major towns are licensed, which is renewed periodically.   Enforcement officers from the Health Department and Municipal Councils also conduct regular checks on hygiene and cleanliness. One feature preparation is like a circus act, by hawkers and in fine dining establishments alike. "Tarik" (literally, pull tea), is a smooth, creamy tea that results from the act of pouring the tea between two big mugs, increasing the height by pulling the pouring mug higher and higher.   As the act smoothes and cools the tea, it's also fun to watch!

Fabled for its mysterious legends and historical past, Malaysia's northern island of Langkawi is so profound in natural verdant beauty that 20 th Century Fox commissioned its magnificent and expensive movie set be built there for 'Anna and the King.'

The British are familiar with Langkawi from the colonial era, when it was little more than a string of languid fishing villages.   Not content to rest upon its mythical past, however, more recently world-class hotels, resorts and world notable spas have sprung up like mushrooms. These days they are some of its main attractions for many guests arriving at Langkawi's international airport.

Driving the tropical forest bordered road to the superlative Tanjung Rhu Resort http://www.marimari.com/hotel/malaysia/tanjung_rhu/ , it's amusing to see curious wild monkeys along the wayside that scamper away at an approaching vehicle. Warranting every one of its five stars, Tanjung Rhu crowns a coastline dotted with fishing boats, rustic villages, and a horizon that twinkles with the brilliance of a thousand stars at dusk. The enclave is nestled in the shade of luxuriant casuarina trees .   The resort claims two imaginative swimming pools – one of salt water and sand bottom, the other infinity-framed and overlooking the shore – that create an enchanting and romantic setting, especially at sunset.   Say "spaaahhh," for their treatments transport to heavenly heights! Their haute cuisine dining area is magical with candlelight, live music, and a panoramic view, just feet from gentle waves lapping the shore.

The Datai Resort, Mandara Spa and 18-hole par 72 Golf Course http://www.impression.com.my/Lgkmain/Datai/Datai.htm provides an idyllic retreat to nature, surrounded by centuries-old virgin tropical rainforest.   Its setting is above a protected cove, on the Andaman Sea, with Tarutao Island on the horizon.

Visitors to Malaysia, the islands of perpetual summer, get a higher degree of luxury for their well-earned buck (that's pegged to the US $) than in many other similar destinations, where very often the top tier of hotel properties remain out of reach for the average visitor. Malaysia has been one of the most successful economies in the Third World. It's one of the most open economies in the world. There are a few trade barriers and it's very open to foreign investment.

Additionally, Malaysia has been pretty good on macroeconomic management with very low inflation. It's never had a balance-of-payments crisis in its history, which is a very important achievement. Also to its credit, Malaysia's always had excellent physical infrastructure -- great roads, harbors, and telecoms. Further, institutions have been fairly high quality and reasonably independent. It inherited a British-style civil service, which has been maintained.   All important factors contributing to its safe environment.

 

Malaysia Airlines ( http://www.malaysiaairlines.com/ ) has recently launched Golden Holidays ( www.goldenholidaysusa.com , 1-866/465-3088 or 1-800/552-9264). The new vacation wing of Southeast Asia is the world's youngest and most progressive fleet. More than 1.5 million passengers recently voted their cabin crew the 'Best in the World' for the friendly, attentive and individualized service. The carrier is debuting with incredibly priced packages that actually include stays at swanky five-star hotels, with their Golden Holidays program. They offer a free flight stopover location , too. It's a measure of how much they want passengers to enjoy their country. A remarkable 'AccessAsia Pass' allows passengers to fly to any or all of 25 celebrated Asian destinations for one low fare of $999!

One destination of the 'romance' realm category is a six-night trip to Pangkor Island that includes stays over water bungalows at the Pangkor Laut Resort ( http://www.asiatravel.com/malaysia/pangkorlaut/ ), where the staff even plants a tree for every couple's visit.   Although the vacation runs $2,016 for midweek departures, there are less expensive versions available.

Malaysia's far-flung islands provide some of the most spectacular opportunities for gastronomic explorations . In these magical settings, there's no better backdrop to let your imagination run wild.   Don your apron - or make a reservation - because you're not in Kansas anymore!   In Malaysia, you've taken a trip over the rainbow to discover a whole new world with ingredients flung like confetti into an ethnic potpourri that swirls with flavors influenced by the country's ethnic past.

It's said that the country's cuisine falls into three categories - hot, hotter and hottest. Fortunately, many recipes and menus offer milder versions. Whatever the palette preference, menus in Malaysia are reasonably priced with a wide choice of delicacies.   The food alone – from street-side 'hawkers' to gourmet dining - is enough to make you want to stay longer, for there's no better way to intimately experience a culture than to explore its cuisine.   And what an immersion course Malaysia has to offer!

Somewhere along the way, there's the rumor that eating spicy foods in a tropical climate cools the body.   Research lends credence to that theory, claiming that they induce perspiration, which cools the body.   However, in Malaysia, people don't usually find it difficult to sweat, which sometimes makes the sufferer feel even hotter!

Another non-starter in the chile rumor department is that chiles (and other spices) mask the flavor of spoiled foods.   People tend not to store foods very long in a hot climate, anyway.   Recent discoveries have proved that some spices (including chiles) do have antibacterial properties, but it's unlikely that cultures adopted them for that reason (since the germ theory is much younger than the cuisine).

Perhaps the most likely reason that chiles (and other spices) are used in the 'hot zone' (within 20 degrees of the equator) is that the diet there is based predominantly on starchy foods (rice and beans) that require substantial seasoning to induce people to eat enough of them to get adequate levels of protein.

The oft' heard phrase, 'variety is the spice of life', applies to Malaysia's multicultural cuisine. Influenced by long-ago traders, Malay cooking incorporates ingredients such as lemon grass, pandan (screwpine) leaves, and kaffir lime leaves.   Fresh herbs, such as daun kemangi (a type of basil), daun kesum (polygonum or laksa leaf), nutmeg, kunyit (tumeric) and bunga kantan (wild ginger buds) are often used.   Traditional spices such as cumin and coriander are utilized in conjunction with Indian and Chinese spices such as pepper, cardamum, star anise and fenugreek.   Seasonings play an important role in Malay cooking as they often enhance the food taste and flavors.   Many of the seasonings are not dried spices but are fresh ingredients such as fresh tumeric, galangal, fresh chili paste, onions, and garlic.   A combination of fresh seasonings and dried spices are normally pounded together to make a fine paste and cooked in oil.   Fresh coconut milk is often added.   It provides richness that coats the palate and tempers the heat from the chili, and through the steamed rice that often accompanies a dish.

 

Rice is the staple diet in any Malay meal.   It is often served for breakfast, lunch, and supper, too.   A popular area fast food chain even serves 'rice burgers!'   Eating utensils are available upon request, but for natives, using fingers makes Malay cuisine literally 'finger lickin' good'!

All dishes are served at the same time, but seem to keep coming to the table, so vast are the selections! Malaysian food strikes a perfect balance between Chinese and Indian cuisine, combining the best of both worlds, with hints of Thai food like satay . Fish is popular in Malay cooking, as is other seafood such as shrimp and cuttlefish.   Beef and mutton are very popular choices, but never pork as it is against their religious beliefs to eat pork.   The other common white meat is chicken. Refreshing drinks, such as fruit punch, are a part of the tropical culture, drunk with meals and throughout the day.

One of the most unique Malay dishes is 'Roti Telur' (lacy pancakes), which sometimes replaces the staple rice.   Roti Telur is an ideal accompaniment to any dish with/without lots of rich gravy. It's often served during special occasions, from breakfast to dinner.   It's made from a mixture of plain flour and eggs, with a pinch of tumeric powder and butter, dribbled in a fine-line circle on a hot grill that'll leave you yearning for more! Desserts are a must and invariably very sweet, often including coconut milk, palm sugar and flour. A variety of fresh fruit is always present, in an irresistible and picturesque variety.

Now is the time to take a bite out of Malaysia!   Whether you're young or old, visiting as a family, a honeymooning couple, or a single backpacker looking for solitude, Malaysia offers excitement and relaxation, culture and beauty.

A taste of Malaysia's bounty is a magical encounter.   Once the enchantment of its food and fables are tasted, 'Selamat Datang' (welcome) will echo in your ears and its lure will have you'll be hungry for more.   It's a shore thing!

To learn more about Malaysia and its burgeoning tourist industry, visit the Malaysia Tourism Board's website: www.tourism.gov.my.

Ethnic Classification of Food in Malaysia:

Chinese – When people in the West speak of Chinese food, they probably mean Cantonese food.   It's the best known and most popular variety of Chinese food.   The food is usually stir-fried with just a touch of oil to ensure that the result is crisp and fresh.   All those best known ?western Chinese' dishes fall into this category – sweet and sour dishes, won ton, chow mein, spring rolls.   A corollary of Canatonese food should be balance: traditionally, all foods are said to be either Yin (cooling) – like vegetables, most fruits and clear soup; or Yang (hearty) – like starchy foods and meat.   A cooling food (Yin) should be in balance with a hearty (Yang) food.

 

Indian – Spices are the heart and soul of Indian cooking. Indian influence in Malaysian cuisine started in the 19 th century when large arrivals of Indian immigrants were brought into the country as contract laborers to work in rubber estates and on the railways.   Some did take the opportunity to set up trade in the textile and food industry.   Indian cuisine can be divided into two mainstreams, Northern and Southern Indian cuisine.

Malay & Nyonya – Variety is the spice in Malay food.   The traditional culinary style has been greatly influenced by the long-ago traders from neighboring countries, such as Indonesia, India, the Middle East, and China.   Malay food is often described as spicy and flavorful as it utilizes a melting pot of spices and herbs.   Fresh coconut milk is often added.

Nyonya food, also referred to as Straits Chinese food or Lauk Embok Embok, is an interesting amalgamation of Chinese and Malay dishes thought to have originated from the Peranakan (Straits Chinese) of Melaka over 400 years ago.   This was the result of inter-marriages between Chinese immigrants and local Malays, which produced a unique culture.   Here, the ladies are called nyonyas and the men babas .

Nyonya food is also native to Penang and Singapore.   Melaka Nyonyas prepare food that is generally sweeter, richer in coconut milk, and with the addition of more Malay spices like coriander and cumin.   Penang Nyonyas drew inspiration from Thai cooking styles, including a preference for sour food, hot chilies, fragrant herbs, and pungent black prawn paste (belacan).

Fruit:

An incredible number of exotic fruits are found all year round in Malaysia.   The best places to buy fresh fruits are pasar tani (farmers' markets) or pasar malam (night markets).

Malaysian Fruits include:

Durian – Be adventurous when trying this.   You'll just have to taste it, so don't be put off by the smell of this thorny football-size fruit that fetches a very high price.

Papaya – The wonder fruit.   Halve one, squeeze some lime and have it for breakfast!

Mangoes – Who could resist them?   You'll find an astonishing variety of mangoes in Malaysia. Buah Mango features a mango split in halves and filled with your choice of shrimp or chicken, sliced mango and peppers in a sweet mango sauce.

Pomelo – The size of a honeydew melon, the pomelo (In Chinese the word for pomelo is homophonous with that for "blessing").   It is the largest of all citrus fruits.   The juiciest ones are said to come from Ipoh.   Its peak harvest is around February, which coincides with Chinese New Year.   The pomelo is often given as a gift during this period.

Pineapple – If you are in Johor, don't leave without trying the different varieties of pineapples.   Johor, the 'Pineapple State', produces the juiciest pineapples.

Starfruit – Juicy with a hint of sweetness.   The most delicious varieties come from Perak.   When the fruit is cut across, it reveals an attractive star shape, hence its name.   The fruit is believed to lower blood pressure.

Rambutans – A hairy-looking red or yellow fruit, about the size of a kiwi fruit.   The flesh tastes similar to the lychee.

Watermelon – The perfect fruit on a hot sweltering afternoon!   Needs no introduction as it is imported to most temperate countries.

Jambu Air – Small, bell-shaped fruit with a waxy white, pink or red skin.   Ideal thirst-quenchers on a hot afternoon!

Guava – If you are heading to Perak, do try the famous guavas of Bidor.   A rich source of Vitamin C, the guava's crispy pleasant texture and taste makes it a popular fruit among locals, who eat if with a sprinkling of a sweet-sour seasoning.   Try some!

Duku – The size of a golf ball, Duki is covered with a thick golden brown skin.   It is a seasonal fruit found from August to September.   Do not bite into its bitter seeds.

Ciku – Looking like a kiwi fruit, its sweet, brownish flesh is often used in fruit salad.

Mangosteen – The size of an orange, it has a thick purplish outer skin.   Beneath its skin is snowy white fleshy segments.   A seasonal fruit, it is found from November to March.

Coconut – Its jelly-like flesh and sweet cool water makes young coconuts one of the best tropical favorites.

Banana – The banana is the third most important fruit cultivated in Malaysia, after pineapple and durian.   A wide variety of bananas are available, among them pisang mas, pisang tanduk, pisang rastali .

Recipes:

Malaysian Green Salad with Sweet Shallot Vinaigrette

Serves 4

Fish sauce adds depth and body to the dressing for these greens.

1 Tbs. Rice wine vinegar

1 Tbs. nam pla (Vietnamese fish sauce – available in Far East grocery stores)

Salt * freshly ground black pepper

1/2 cup light sesame oil

1 shallot, peeled and sliced into thin rings

6 oz. Mixed baby Asian greens, such as tatsoi, mustard, mizuna, and pea shoots

In a small bowl, whisk together rice wine vinegar, nam pla, and salt and pepper to taste.   Slowly drizzle in sesame oil, whisking constantly to make smooth vinaigrette. Place greens in a salad bowl.   Add the dressing and a few grinds of pepper.   Toss gently to coat greens without crushing them.

Variation A – Trim ends of 1 lb. Choy sum (Chinese broccoli).   Peel the thicker stems, then steam choy sum until tender, about 15 minutes.   Transfer to a serving plate and pour Sweet Shallot Vinaigrette over hot greens.   Serve warm, or chill and serve cold later .

Variation B – Trim, then julienne, leaves of a small Chinese cabbage.   Thinly slice 4 scallions and quickly sauté them in a little sesame oil.   Place julienne cabbage in a large serving bowl and add Sweet Shallot Vinaigrette.   Toss well.   Sprinkle the sautéed scallions and 1/2 cup chopped roasted peanuts over the top before serving.

Braised Duck Legs with Mustard Greens and Bok Choy

Serves 4

Serve this richly flavored dish with plain steamed white rice

3 Tbs. Juniper berries

1/2 piece star anise

1 tsp. Dried green peppercorns

1/2 tsp. Ground nutmeg

1/2 tsp. Salt

1 large clove garlic, peeled and crushed

2 Tbs. White wine vinegar

4 duck legs, with thighs (about 2 lbs.)

1 lb. Mustard greens, with stems

1 lb. bok choy

1 cup duck or chicken stock

4 medium red onions, cut into 1/2" slices

Grind juniper berries, star anise, and peppercorns to a powder with a mortar and pestle and place in a bowl.   Add nutmeg, salt, garlic, and vinegar and stir to form a paste.   Rub duck legs well with paste, forcing some under the skin.   Cover; refrigerate for 24 hours.

Bring duck legs to room temperature.   Preheat oven to 375 degrees F. Place duck legs skin-side-down in a large cast-iron pan or oven-proof skillet.   Oven-sear to a mahogany color, about 30 minutes.   Remove duck legs from pan and discard fat.   Wipe out pan.

Reduce heat to 325 degrees F.   Place mustard greens and bok choy in the same pan and add stock.   Top vegetables with onions and duck legs.   Cover tightly and cook until duck is tender, about 1 1/2 - 2 hours.

Red Snapper and Scallops in Lemongrass Coconut Curry

A popular Malaysian dish - Can be made with almost any type of fish or seafood.

Serves 6

Main Ingredients:

2 lbs red snapper fillets, cubed (could substitute cod or salmon if desired)

1 lb scallops

1 1/2 cups coconut milk

2 stalks lemongrass, lightly pounded

1/2 cup tamarind water (see below)

4 Tbs. lime juice

Tamarind Water:

3 Tbs. dried tamarind pulp

1/2 cup hot water

Spice Paste:

4 dried chills (or fresh if available), chopped

1 small onion, chopped

2 cloves garlic

4 stalks lemongrass, thinly sliced

1 tsp. shrimp paste (Thai is best)

Marinade:

1/2 cup coconut milk

1 Tbs. curry powder (Vietnamese is best)

2 Tbs. sugar

1 tsp. salt

1 tsp. fish sauce

Brown sugar to taste

Oil for stir-frying

To prepare tamarind water : Place the tamarind in a bowl and pour the hot water over.   Soak the tamarind for approximately 20 minutes. Stir the tamarind occasionally to remove any lumps.

While the tamarind is soaking, prepare the fish and the spice paste. To prepare the fish : Combine the marinade ingredients and marinate both the red snapper and the scallops for about 15 minutes.

To prepare spice paste : Use a food processor to grind all the ingredients together until smooth (you may need to add a small amount of liquid).

When the tamarind pulp is soft, strain it through a fine sieve, pressing on the pulp.   Keep the liquid, discarding the pulp. Heat wok and add oil .   When oil is ready, add the spice paste, cooking it for about 30 seconds to soften.

Add 1/2 cup of the coconut milk and the 2 lemongrass stalks and bring to a boil.   Simmer for 5 minutes.   Remove the lemon grass (it is there only to flavor the sauce).

Add the marinated fish, lime juice, tamarind water and stir-fry for about 1 minute.   Add the rest of the coconut milk.   Taste and adjust seasoning, adding a bit of brown sugar if desired, and/or more curry powder.   Simmer for another 5 minutes – if desired add water to thin the sauce.

(The spice paste and the sauce for this dish can be made ahead of time and refrigerated)

French Beans with Liver

Serves 4

Pound together powder with a mortar and pestle and place in a bowl:

3 Tbs. sesame oil

4 shallots

2 cloves garlic

Finely slice:

1 piece chicken liver

1 piece chicken gizzard

1/2 pound fresh or 1 package frozen French beans (if fresh, sliced slantwise into medium lengths, as desired)

Sufficient water

3 Tbs. oyster sauce

1 Tbs. sweet Soya sauce

salt to taste

Heat oil; stir-fry the shallots and garlic until fragrant.

Add in chicken liver and gizzard; stir for 2 – 3 minutes.

Mix in French beans, water, oyster sauce and soya sauce. Stir and add salt to taste.

Stir well until the beans are quite tender

Dish out onto a serving platter and serve hot.

   

MALAYSIAN CHICKEN CURRY IN COCONUT MILK

Serves 4+    

   

1 chicken, cut into chunks

1 Tbs. chili powder

2 Tbs. curry powder

1 Tbs. paprika

1 tsp. cumin

3 cloves garlic, chopped

2 onions, chopped

2 tomatoes, roughly chopped

1/2 cup chopped cilantro

2 Tbs. oil

1 bay leaf

1 lb. potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks

1 cup coconut milk

3 cup water

Salt and pepper to taste

Heat oil in big pot and fry onion and garlic for 1 minute.

Add the chicken and continue cooking for 3 minutes. Add all the spices.

Stir everything together for a few minutes. Let cook until chicken is tender.

Add the rest of the ingredients. Adjust seasoning and serve with steamed rice.

Beef Rendang

Serves 8

3 lb lean stewing beef

2 medium onions, chopped

2 Tbs. finely chopped garlic

1 Tbs. finely chopped ginger

1 Tbs. chopped galangal, fresh or bottled (Closely resembling ginger)

6 fresh red chilies, seeded

14 fl oz can coconut milk

1 1/2 tsp. salt

1 tsp. ground turmeric

2 tsp. chili powder or to taste

3 tsp. ground coriander

1 tsp. ground cumin

1/2 tsp. ground aromatic ginger

1 stalk fresh lemon grass, bruised

4 fl oz/1/2 cup tamarind liquid

2 tsp. sugar

Cut beef into strips and put into a large, heavy saucepan or Dutch oven.   Put onion garlic, ginger, galangal, chilies and 1/2 cup water into a blender, cover and blend until smooth. Pour over meat and add all remaining ingredients except tamarind liquid and sugar. Mix well and bring to the boil, uncovered.

Reduce heat to low, add tamarind liquid and simmer uncovered until gravy is thick, stirring occasionally.   Turn heat low and continue to cook for about 2 hours, stirring from time to time, until oil separates from the gravy.

Add sugar and stir constantly.

Serve with steamed white rice and vegetable dishes and sambals.   (Sambals are fiery blends of hot chills and other seasonings that are used as relishes, condiments, or sauces throughout Malaysia.)

Malaysian Mango Pudding

Serves 4+

10-ounces mango pureé

2-ounces (unflavored) gelatin powder

7-ounces sugar

10-ounces water

1-ounce butter

1-packet instant coconut powder

9-ounces ice water

14-ounces milk

9-ounces whipping cream

Mix gelatin powder, sugar and water, and stir well.   Bring to boil until sugar dissolves in water.

Stir in butter.

Stir together mango pureé, ice water, fresh milk, whipping cream and instant coconut powder. Mix well.

Mix above two, stir well.

Pour the mixture into a desired shape mold. Chill well and serve with condensed milk.

Notes:   When out on the town, try 'Ice Kacang.' No one expects to see beans and corn on shaved ice with chunks of jelly, syrup and coconut milk all on one plate. But once you try it, you become a believer (really!).

Link for additional Malaysian recipes: http://www.magma.ca/~pfeiffer/sharon/msian.htm

Wine to accompany – and help balance - flavors of Malaysia that include hot chili (no, that's not an oxymoron!):

A fruity wine with a perception of sweetness or which has some actual residual sugar, no or low tannins, brisk acidity and moderate or low alcohol is an excellent choice.   Residual sugar tames the warmth from the chilies, while tannins work to the opposite effect.   Acidity moderates excessive spiciness and heat; high alcohol just ratchets the chilies into a higher gear.

Fruity, low-tannin reds like Beaujolais, some New World Merlot, Rosé, Rosé sparkling wines and Blanc de Noirs fall into this category.   White wines, including Chenin Blanc, Viognier, Marsanne, Pinot Grigio, Pinot Gris, low-oak Chardonnay, Muscat and Moscato, Riesling, and a personal favorite, Gewurztraminer, can be even better matches for spicy foods with chili heat. German Rieslings have all the characteristics wanted in a partner wine.   These wines have no oak tannins, as they are fermented in stainless steel.   Many German Rieslings have only 8% alcohol and maintain the fruit flavors – apricot, peach, citrus, pear and apple – as well as touches of honey.   They often are off-dry in style; the Spatlese and Auslese Rieslings contain more residual sugar than Kabinett, which is often considered the most food-friendly for a wide range of dishes.

Even with all that fruit and perceived sweetness, these wines show zippy acidity that can cut through rich and creamy or spicy food.   Natural acidity is maintained because Riesling grapes in Germany are grown in cold climates so far north that you'd think grapes wouldn't grow   there.   The poor soil is often slate and rock, which contributes to the mineral quality of many German Rieslings.

Perhaps most important is the balance of sweetness and acidity – high acidity balances the sugar so the wine does not taste too sweet or cloying.   Riesling's acidity helps cut through the food's richness and readies the palate for the next bite.