An Insider's Tour of Napa Valley


by Donald Patz
Owner, Patz & Hall Wine Company
Napa, California

Often times, friends and family call me and ask, “If I’m going to be visiting the Napa Valley soon and I don’t want the regular tourist experience, where do I go?” Let me share my answer to them with you. The Napa Valley offers tourists and the wine trade alike a unique opportunity to experience vineyards first hand and to taste a variety of wines. It is also physically close to San Francisco and a great day trip from just about anywhere in Central California. My answer to the above question is a bit different for each group or individual depending on their interest. However, here is one suggested combination of winery visits, and while there are many others, this one offers several fun stops.

First, you have to get over the idea of  “seeing it all” in a day or even a week. The Napa Valley is not very large but it is literally packed with vineyards and wineries, and you can’t see more than a small fraction on any visit. A good visit includes stops at wineries of different sizes to see and compare how these wineries face similar challenges in different ways.

Arriving in the Napa Valley in style always makes for a more fun visit. If it is appropriate weather, by all means rent a convertible car for your visit. Drop the top and get out your sunglasses (there is a state law requiring sunglasses when you drive during the day… isn’t there?) If you can arrive before 10 a.m., go directly to Dean & Deluca, a gourmet food specialty shop, just south of St. Helena along Hwy 29. Beware, some members of your party may want to camp out at D&D all day, as it is an impressive store. However, you must resist! Get a coffee – I enjoy their lattes – walk about the store and check out the great stuff, get some lunch goodies and get out by 10 a.m. if possible because most tasting rooms open at that time. 

I suggest starting with a stop at a larger winery first. The two best “Big Guy” tours are Robert Mondavi Winery and Beringer Vineyards. It’s up to you – I like the both for tours since they give a good overview of the Napa Valley and winemaking. I would start at Robert Mondavi. If it is summer you should call ahead a week or more in advance to get an appointment for a tour/tasting. Expect big crowds during the main tourist season at either stop. The idea here is to get a lot of your basic questions answered early in the day and use your new knowledge to ask better questions at the smaller places.

I recommend skipping lunch, remember those lunch goodies from Dean & Deluca? Now is the time to snack in the car on your way to your next appointment. Take two afternoon stops one about 1 p.m. and one about 3 p.m. at individual wineries. If you have a favorite winery of your own – now is the time to plug them into your tour as your 1 p.m. tasting. Let me make two suggestions (you may select other wineries if you like):

  • One of my favorite “insider” wineries is Behrens & Hitchcock Winery on top of Spring Mountain. This will take a little drive from the main road of Highway 29 and require a special appointment, but it is worth the effort. The Behrens & Hitchcock Winery team produces red wines from a number of locations within the Napa Valley as well as far away locales in Mendocino County up north. These are rare and exciting wines that are fun to taste and enjoy.
  • Plan on visiting Miner Family Vineyards for a 3 p.m. tour. They are located along the eastern edge of the valley on the Silverado Trail just about Oakville. The Miners are a very nice family – sometimes they are even around to say hi in their tasting room. They make a remarkable number of wines and all of them very good. If you call ahead for an appointment I am sure they will give you a tour of their caves dug into the hillsides behind their winery building. They make an excellent Cabernet Sauvignon and a wonderful Chardonnay. However, the wine to try is their Sangiovese rosé “Rosato” as good a version of this wine as you can get.

After leaving Miner Family Vineyards head south toward the city of Napa. Vintners' Collective will allow you to sample and buy wines from ten different sources (including my own – Patz & Hall wine). This is an old stone building on Main Street in the city of Napa. It includes wines from hard to find wineries such as Judd’s Hill, Patz & Hall, Cafaro Cellars, Mason, Clark Claudon, Mi Sueno, Vinoce, Elan and Melka. This collective tasting room allows for sales and samplings of a number of wines each day. It is worth the stop since Vintners' Collective is open Wednesday - Monday, 11 a.m. – 6 p.m, so. you can use it as a final stop along your way and taste some truly unique and otherwise unobtainable wines.

I highly recommend you finish your day with dinner at the place where all the winemakers are eating, Angèle. This is a remarkable new restaurant only a few short blocks from Vintners' Collective also on Main Street in Napa. A one-time boathouse it has been transformed by Bettina Rouas and her team into an excellent French-styled bistro. You can continue your wine tasting with either their excellent selection of wine by the glass or by purchasing bottles from the wine list. If you are feeling really adventurous try multiple half bottles with each course! This is the newest restaurant in a series of exciting new wine destination restaurants in the city of Napa. You will not be disappointed. Of special interest try the cauliflower soup with curry oil and the fabulous pork chop! Angèle may have the best French fries in the Napa Valley but you be the judge!

Drive home carefully! It is easy to over indulge on a day like this and find yourself not fully functional to drive home. Make sure there are other days ahead to enjoy more wineries and restaurants in the Napa Valley!

Dean & Deluca
607 S. St. Helena Hwy
St. Helena, CA 94574

Robert Mondavi Winery
Oakville, CA 94562
robertmondaviwinery.com
Behrens & Hitchcock Winery
P.O. Box 1127
Calistoga, CA 94515

Miner Family Winery
7850 Silverado Trail
Oakville, CA 94562
www.MinerFamilyWines.com

Vintners' Collective
1245 Main Street
Napa, CA 94559
www.vintnerscollective.com

Angèle
Reservations by phone or fax
tel: 707.252.8115
fax: 707-252-8239
540 Main Street
Napa, CA 94559
www.Angele.us