Parmigiano-Reggiano

text and photos by Gaylen Andrews © 2007

I TRAVEL QUITE a bit; yet never set foot in Italy before. So imagine my excitement upon traveling there in September to learn about Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese. From the Milan airport, we drive to the city of Parma. Situated between the Apennine Mountains and the Po River, Parma will be our home base for the next several days. Soon, I will see firsthand the art of making an ancient cheese that dates back to at least the 11th Century.

Photo courtesy of Consorzio del Formaggio Parmigiano-Reggiano

After checking into the Palace Maria Luigia hotel, I set out to get a feel for world-famous Parma. Trolleys, buses, and Vespas roll by, but most charming are the active and chic Parmagians on bicycles. I learn the artistry of 16th-Century artist Parmigianino, who lived in Parma — as well as works by Leonardo da Vinci, Fra Angelico, El Greco, Correggio, and Annibale Carracci that are exhibited in the Galleria Nazionale. Arturo Toscanini was born in Parma and the renowned Teatro Regio, Parma’s opera house, carries his legacy. The Centro Episcopale is a beautiful grouping of buildings in the center of town that includes the Baptistry, the Duomo, and the church of San Giovanni — all worth investigating.

On Saturdays, merchants set up movable stalls near the opera house, in and around Strada Garibaldi. However, a larger, open-air market is found below the corners of G. Mazzini and G. Marlotti streets. There is much to see. Colorful flower stalls burst with blooms of heather, cyclamen, sunflowers, violets, and multi-colored ornamental broccoli. Produce stalls spill over with olives, fava beans, peppers, small and rotund eggplants, a variety of mushrooms including delectable porcini, figs, and golden oranges, and a cornucopia of berries and wine grapes. The Ponte Verdi Bridge spans the Torrente Parma River. Sadly dry this season, it leads to the majestic, chestnut tree-lined avenues of the Parco Ducale, a beautiful park. There, spiky chestnut fruits scattered on the ground remind of walks in New York City and the scent of roasting chestnuts. Thanksgiving and Christmas cannot be far off. A time when many Italians, certainly in this region, following tradition, will eat tortellini in capon broth and Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese.

In a technological world that now seems to be run by the nanosecond, it’s refreshing to visit a place where time seems to pass at more slowly — especially as regards the production of artisanal foods. I am, of course, referring to the region of Emilia-Romagna. The Apennines form half this territory, while a large plain — the other half — reaches to the Adriatic Sea. This is Italy’s heartland and the birthplace of many well-known and prized artisanal food products such as Parmigiano-Reggiano, aceto balsamico (balsamic vinegar), and prosciutto di Parma.

These foods reflect the passion and inherent respect that the people of Emilia-Romagna have for tradition. This passion and perfection infuses everything they produce — cheese, wine, and olive oil, to name a few.
Parmigiano-Reggiano, one of the world’s greatest handmade artisanal cheeses, is the most important of these “slow foods” — a living, breathing substance. Its renown is so great that even Thomas Jefferson imported it to America. Like many other cheeses, it is made from milk, rennet, salt, and time. So, what makes this “king of Italian cheeses” — indeed, some would say it is the king of all cheeses — so special? There are many reasons.

A time-honored process

The first milk cooperatives were founded in the period immediately after World War I and remain the backbone of this region’s network of active dairy farms today. We visited a cheesemaking facility within the region, one of approximately 800 dairies in the area that transforms the milk produced by over 12,000 farms. The registered territory or zone of production for this cheese comprises the provinces of Bologna, on the left bank of the Reno River, and Mantua, on the right bank of the Po River, and all of the provinces of Modena, Parma, and Reggio Emilia.

Here the fertile land produces the nutritional fodder for specially bred, healthy dairy cows known for their quality, rich milk. These cows comprise an Italian breed of Holstein brought in during the 1960s and 1970s, Brown Swiss, and two local breeds — white cows from Modena and red cows from Reggio, both bred since the Middle Ages. To maintain milk quality, regulations for what dairy cows eat are strongly adhered to and it is the difference in milk from many dairies that contributes to the uniqueness of every cheesemakers’ product.

Parmigiano-Reggiano has been made the same natural way for 800 years. A delicate equilibrium is maintained between milk and environment, because what affects the environment affects the product. So the building, or casello, where the cheese is made is built for light and ventilation.

Milk, which is collected in the evening and morning, is maintained at 18° C minimum refrigeration and transported as quickly as possible from the dairy farm to the cheesemaking facility. Since the milk is used raw, the distance traveled is kept within strict limits for purposes of hygiene. The process, a method based on the traditional need to create a cheese capable of withstanding long journeys, begins early in the morning.

To make two wheels of cheese, 600 liters of skim milk is combined with an equal amount of fresh, full-fat morning milk in one vat. The skim milk is derived from the evening milking — “day-old” milk that has sat overnight for 12 hours in wide tubs to allow the fat to separate. The fat is then skimmed off the top. Na-turally soured whey cultures that grow good bacteria — the indispensable lactic ferments from the previous day’s processing — and calves rennet are added to this milk. The enzymatic composition of calf rennet is most suited to milk; it curdles or clots the milk. But the recipe is not set in stone. The amounts, as to whether more or less needs to be added, are determined according to what the cheesemaker perceives throughout the process.

Master cheesemaker Pietro Lelli has a 365-day-per-year job. Honed through practice, his knowledge comes from a long apprenticeship and it’s put to the test on a daily basis. He knows that the quality of both the milk and the cheese is closely related. The milk from the various milk farms never loses its inherent individuality, so he follows production closely, using all of his senses to adapt to the inevitable differences in the behavior of the milk. He examines the granules, the delicacy of the cooking process, and the breaking up of the curds.

The milk mixture is heated to between 18° C and 25° C (56° C maximum) in copper vats — because copper heats evenly — and it is stirred continuously to break up the curd formation. Lelli comes by each of his 26 vats to check how fast the curd is coming up. He scoops the mixture up within his hand and squeezes it to test the texture.

Once the cheesemaker determines that it’s ready (see Figure A), the cheese is separated from the whey using cheesecloth linen called patta. It is lifted from the vat (Figure B) and the cloth is attached to a metal bar at both ends (Figure C).

Figure A	Figure B	Figure C

Left to drain, this large lump of cheese hangs in its improvised hammock. It’s then cut in half (Figure D) and each half is placed in a plastic molding form (Figure E). The day of production and the number of the vat is written on the cheese so they know where the milk used to make the cheese comes from. Stencils are later put in place to mark the date and dairy.

Figure D	Figure E

To compress the cheese, wooden weights are placed on top of each cheese batch to make it fit the mold better. Every six hours, the cheesecloths are changed and the forms are turned to maintain moisture throughout the cheese. The cheese spends one-and-a half days within the plastic molds. Then, to allow evaporation to take place, they are transferred to a perforated stainless-steel mold for the same length of time.

On the third day after production, when firm, the cheese is taken to the salatoia for salting, a form of conservation. Traditionally, this was accomplished by “massaging” sea salt into the cheese. Today, it’s done by a quicker method of total immersion in brine for at least 22 days to further remove moisture and harden the cheese. The brine only penetrates one centimeter deep, but keeps working even after removal from the brine bath. It takes a minimum of about six months for the salt to make it to the center of the cheese. As the cheese loses moisture, it also loses weight.

Afterwards, the wheels of cheese are placed on wooden shelves in storage vaults to rest and age for a period of 18 months to two years. This particular facility can house 15,000 wheels of cheese within its maturation room. During the first year, each wheel of cheese is turned every 15 days and once a month thereafter for the next year or two. During this time, Summer heat causes a chemical reaction between protein and bacteria. Fermentation breaks down the protein chains (amino acids) within the cheese and lactose diminishes. Within two-and-a-half to three years, lactose is completely absent. Simultaneously, the amino acid tyrosine increases over time, making this cheese more easily digestible. The result is an almost predigested cheese that is very low in fat and cholesterol — and perfect for those who are lactose intolerant.

Within four-month intervals during the first year, Consorzio experts come in three times to test the wheels of cheese. Cheese that is rejected is sold at discount to locals as grana da pasto (table cheese) but cannot be called Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese. The remaining wheels of cheese are graded as being either of first or second quality, but inspection and testing continue throughout the time in storage. The wheels of cheese are inspected for oiliness or off-coloring. Lelli demonstrates the use of a hammer or martello to tap on the cheese. He listens for hollow sounds since holes form from bacterial growth. An inspector will also check a cheese’s fragrance by screwing an ago — a needlelike auger — into the cheese.

A raw-milk product, Parmigiano- Reggiano cheese falls in a category of cheeses called grana. These are hard, low-moisture, aged cheeses whose internal structure is both granular in appearance and texture. It’s important, however, not to confuse Parmigiano- Reggiano with a similar cheese product called Grana Padano from the Po Valley. That cheese is made in an area adjacent to the geographic zone determined for Parmigiano-Reggiano. Essentially the same in size and shape, I am told even the best Grana Padano can only rival lesser Parmigiano-Reggiano cheeses.

Grana literally means “grain,” but, besides meaning cheese (formaggio) as used in Italian slang, it can also mean “dough” or “scratch” as in money. The word formaggio is derived from formos, relating to the wicker basket into which the ancient Greeks poured curdled milk to drain.

Authentic markings

Cheesemaking is a serious business in Italy. A non-profit regulatory agency, the Consorzio del Formaggio Parmigiano- Reggiano, protects the quality of this cheese. Their scientists test and monitor milk quality and cows’ food in the dairies. The agency also inspects and brands the cheeses as a guarantee that all standards have been met.

Each consortium-registered cheesemaking facility within a designated region is issued a specific number of plastic bands. These are carefully monitored to prevent counterfeits. Used to vertically stencil the words “Parmigiano-Reggiano” repeatedly from top to bottom all around the cheese, they are inserted between the cheese and the inside of the mold once the cheesecloth has been removed. This is just one of the ways you know that you are purchasing authentic Parmigiano-Reggiano. Every piece of cheese cut from the wheel will have this marking on its rind.

Andrea Bonati, President of the Consorzio del Formaggio Parmigiano-Reggiano informs that this is the most imitated, most “ripped-off” cheese. His organization defends this product from “the outside” in order to protect both the producer and consumer from imitators. “It’s important to protect the word ‘Parmesan’ as a derivative of Parmigiano,” he said. “We want the same protection as that granted to Champagne.”

The first written mention of “Formaggio Parmesan” is found in writings dating back to 1534 Venice. While Parmesan is Parmigiano-Reggiano in Italy and throughout Europe (since 2002, no other product can be sold in Europe under this name), this is not necessarily so in the US.

Bonati cites an example: “We could not make Coca- Cola in Italy and call it ‘cola’ or ‘coke.’ US producers call their product ‘Parmesan’ to confuse consumers, so that they believe the cheese is authentic Parmigiano.”

The cheesemaking facility’s registration number, and the month and year of production, is also stenciled on the rind. The cheese will be inspected after 12 months and, if approved, the inspector stamps his oval firebrand approval mark, a guarantee that the cheese has met the criteria set forth by the consortium. Imagine, there is even a special police branch for fraud; they check the seals for authenticity and certification and can remove cheese from sale.

Cheeses that are intended for export are branded with a special firebrand marking that certifies quality and a minimum of 18 months of aging. Whole wheels, weighing 70-80 pounds at retail, cost nearly $1,000. When the cheese is portioned into pie-shaped wedges for export, the certification mark for export will be on the label, with an average cost of $12 to $15 per pound.

Formaggio Parmigiano-Reggiano

Pietro Lelli specially selects a cheese to open for us to taste. Lovingly, he rubs the wheel of cheese, handling it like a child. The rind is a shade of old gold. Then he gets down to business. First, he shallowly scores the rind all the way around as a guideline for dividing the wheel into halves. Special almond- or “teardrop-” (lagrima) shaped knife blades — thinner on one side — are inserted at each end of the top diameter line. The use of these cutting blades highlights the irregular, granular structure of the cheese from which it gets the name grana. The blade is also used to flake off chunks of varying sizes and irregular shapes to eat with the fingers. According to Lelli, it’s wrong to slice or cut Parmigiano-Reggiano. The cheese must be broken open to protect its internal crystalline structure to leave its characteristic “crumbliness” intact.

To begin opening the cheese, he gently wedges the knives in slowly, but continuously, nudging them further in until the wheel of cheese breaks evenly in half to expose a grainy, straw-colored interior. The color can vary between pale and a deep yellow shade, an indication that the milk used in its preparation has come from cattle fed on fresh fodder. In that moment, the cheese is at its prime. We inhale its fragrance and admire its beauty. But now exposed to air, its volatile notes will rapidly evaporate and the flavor will gradually decline.

Taste a chunk of Parmigiano-Reggiano. You may perceive several unique characteristics. Its granular structure crumbles easily. When chewed, it easily dissolves and the bursting of the amino tyrosine crystals in your mouth are fundamental in defining the uniqueness of this cheese. The taste you experience derives from a balance of salty, sweet, and slightly spicy flavors.

Knowing this, never buy already grated Parmigiano- Reggiano. Go to a purveyor with a high turnover and buy wedges that have been vacuum-sealed to avoid air contact. Then, to taste the cheese in all its aromatic glory, always grate the cheese immediately before use. Remember that Parmigiano-Reggiano is an intensely flavored cheese; a little goes a long way for flavor impact.

Arrividerci

On my last day in Parma, I pause in Piazza Garibaldi Square for a leisurely outdoor lunch at the Caffé dell Orologio. Italians are social creatures and it is crowded. Upon perusing the menu, I order insalata Nizzardi, a salad of greens, arugula, raddichio, olives, and capers for seven euros. It is garnished, of course, with nutritious and easy-to-digest shavings of Parmigiano-Reggiano. Along with bread with an excellent crumb and vina bianchi in calice (a glass of white wine) — an excellent Chardonnay Sassi Cavi for 12 euros — this is all that I require.

If I sit long enough, I am certain to meet someone I know. It has happened more than once that day. Church bells toll the time, as they have done throughout the centuries, and I know that I will soon miss the enchantment of Parma and the magical light that reflects off its buildOrings. The paradox of this wealthy and well-dressed city is that it has a small-town feel to it.

Before returning to my hotel, I walk next door into the Gran Caffé Orientale shop. There I find an Ernesto Barozzi hand-blown 100-milliliter glass bottle (1857). It contains an unusual pale-green spirit called Rosolio alla Violetta, a liqueur made from violets, for 25 euros. What looks like a single, delicate violet petal is trapped within the bottle’s base. I can’t resist. I purchase it not only to sample a strange liqueur, but for the container as well. I will add it to my stash of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese and several bottles of Venturini Baldini aceto balsamico, a priceless condiment. I’ll worry about packing later.

TIPS: Cheese • Italy Travel • Accomodations • Restaurants  

Proper storage of cheese: If stored properly, your Parmigiano will retain its best flavor for about one month. Unprotected, the cheese will quickly dry out. This is not a problem, if you are using the cheese for grating purposes, but it will not appeal as a table cheese. To help the cheese reabsorb moisture, soak cheesecloth in water with a small amount of vinegar to prevent the formation of mold. Wrap it around the cheese followed by aluminum foil. Leave out on the kitchen counter for a few hours. Then remove the wrapping and re-wrap in parchment or waxed

paper, then in plastic or aluminum foil, and refrigerate where it’s not too cold and the humidity is higher — in the vegetable area.

Travel Tips: For Italy travel information, visit www.italiantourism. com. For a guided visit to one of the Parmigiano-Reggiano dairies, go to www.parmigiano-reggiano.it. Most menus are in Italian, so pack a book to assist you in translating Italian words and phrases. Langenscheidt’s

Pocket Menu Reader for Italy is one. The Pocket Menu Reader is a gastronomic dictionary, phrasebook, and guide. You’ll find it indispensable.

Accommodations:

Palace Maria Luigia, Viale Mentana, 140, 43100 Parma. E-mail: Maria.Luigia@italyhotel.com. Located in the center of Parma, offers a refined traditional style.

Dining recommendations:

Ristorante-Pizzeria al Corsaro, Via Cavour, 37, Parma. This is a must-stop for extraordinary pizza.

Gelateria K2, Parma. This ice cream shop is at Strada Cairoli and Borgo del Correggio. Homemade, the flavor selections were diverse and wonderful.

Ristorante la Greppia, Via Garibaldi, 39A, Parma. This is one of the better restaurants in Parma (usually closed in July, December 24 - January 2, and certain days of the week). Antipasti included eggplant with an “ancient” sauce of capers, and a veal carpaccio with fig sauce. A first course included risotto made with strawberries, a touch of onion and white wine, as well as pasta and gnocchi. A style of veal kidney, pheasant perfumed with juniper, and veal stuffed with Parmigiano made up the second course.

Ristorante Maxim’s, Viale Mentana, 140, Parma. Located inside the Palace Maria Luigia Hotel. Specialty is Emilian traditional seafood and cuisine.

Ristorante Parizzi,Via della Republica, 71, Parma. For a superb dinner, the food is prepared thoughtfully, with care and considerable pride. For example, the seven-course chef’s menu with wine pairing: A pumpkin blossom stuffed with Parmigiano-Reggiano, and black truffle sauce was paired with Champagne Pierre Moncuit. Both a porcini mushroom salad with a mousse of Parmigiano-Reggiano and garnished with 25-year-old balsamic vinegar, and skewered radicchio and scallops wrapped in thin sheets of slightly smoked pig’s lard were paired with a Pinot Grigio ‘02 Venica. Rofosco Bottaz Venica was paired with tender medallions of young horse (yes, horse, and it was delicious!) with fennel and cipolla onion marmalade and an “ancient” sauce. Closed Sunday dinnertime, Mondays, and part of the Summer.

Trattoria Teatro, Piazza Verdi, 5, Fontanellato (19 km from Parma). Lunched here enjoying a bottle of Gutturnio, Colli Piacentini, Vigna del Ronco (2002). A blend of Bonarda and Barbera grapes, it is deep red in color, big and basic, though not unrefined. Clean and slightly “hot,” it paired beautifully with our Felino salami, gorgonzola, and Parmigiano-Reggiano cheeses.

Trattoria della Ghiara, Vicolo Folletto, 1/C, Reggio Emilia. Another wonderful lunch that included tournedos of beef filet with Port and white grapes, and Parmigiano ice cream garnished with a reduction of certified Venturini Baldini balsamico.