Supperclub San Francisco

text and photos ©2009 by Scott W Clemens

Guest Chef Hubert Keller, of Fleur des Lys

Supperclub San Francisco has been around for a few years now, but I’d put off going because the online customer reviews are so wildly divergent. So I was happy to accept an invitation to one of their Uber Dinners in October, to see what could provoke such polarization. Supperclub’s Uber Dinner concept is a collaboration between Supperclub’s own new Executive Chef Guss Wickenhagen, and guest chefs — in this case two of our best French chefs: Hubert Keller of Fleur des Lys on Nob Hill, and Roland Passot of La Folie, on Russian Hill.

Supperclub is edgy and innovative, and it fits in just fine in this city. San Francisco has always embraced its weird, wacky denizens, and this era’s characters are all on display at Supperclub, from the hosts, to the entertainers, to the clientele — an interesting mix of straight and gay, young and old. If you’re open minded, you’ll have a good time. If you’re offended by transvestites, homosexuals, tattoos and bawdy fun, stay home; Supperclub is not for  you. Supperclub was born in Amsterdam and is right at home in San Francisco.

I don’t know if the other venues, in Istanbul, Singapore and Los Angeles, have the same layout. San Francisco’s Supperclub is divided into three rooms, with a round bar at the entrance, another black, padded room with a pit in the center (use your imagination), and the dining room. There are a couple of long tables in the dining room, but most of the patrons recline or sprawl along a six-foot wide padded shelf that hugs three walls on the two levels, surrounding a dance floor. The fourth side is the exhibition kitchen below, and a projection wall above. Guests on the beds have pillows to lean against, and tiny little tables that are suitable for drinks, or for one person only, so be prepared to eat on your lap.

The lighting is theatrical. When we arrived the walls glowed with diffuse white and purple lights, reminding me of the inside of the ice hotels of Norway and Switzerland. But the lighting changes with the entertainment, at times red, at times blue, the entertainers glowing under bright spotlights. For this evening we had a lovely opera singer, a juggling acrobat, and a transvestite strip show.

The servers were friendly and attentive, and though the time between courses was longer than expected, one goes there as much for the entertainment and the spectacle, as for the food, so loosen up; the food will come. Which is not to say that the food is just an afterthought; far from it.

The evening began with a glass of Pommery Champagne paired with Chef Wickenhagen’s amuse bouche of Scallops and Caviar on Foccacia with a Cauliflower-chanterelle purée, and a first course of BBQ Duck, paired with a fruit concoction. Keller supplied the second course of Maine Lobster and Truffle Cappucino with Young Leeks and Fingerling Potatoes and black peppercorn Madeleine (a sort of soup), paired with a Grenache Blanc from Chapoutier. Passot took the third course, a Duo of Lamb (rack roasted on the bone and a curry-mustard-crusted loin), with Eggplant Purée, Pommes Fondante and medjool dates, paired with a Chapoutier Syrah. All three chefs provided a dessert, with Keller serving a Lemon & Honey Cupcake and Champagne Rosé Shooter, with raspberry mousse and golden meringue. Passot countered with Valhrona bittersweet Chocolate and Passion Fruit Bombe, while Wickenhagan ended the meal with an Almond Crisp served with Apple/Calvados butter.

The food was innovative, and it was fun to see staid French chefs, whose own restaurants are quiet and dignified, cut loose after dinner. Keller put on earphones and took on the role of DJ, delivering seriously loud, thumping music, while the always jovial Passot spun across the dance floor.

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